Testaccio

Went running along the Trevere this morning before coffee. Kept saying "must.run.to.keep.eating.in.italy." This cafe was just off of Campo di Fiore, which was a mobscene on a Saturday morning. The cellphone, sunglasses, cigarette and espresso cups are pretty classic italian cafe table settings. 

Juliette, my flatmate took me sight seeing in Testaccio, which is a blue-collar neighborhood just south of il centro. Walked by some ruins, and some candy.

We also visited Roma Macro, which is the contemporary art museum. The building is a renovated slaughterhouse: Testaccio was home to most of the slaughterhouse facilities in Rome. They've preserved a good deal of the old steel structure to demonstrate the renovation process. The inside courtyard is huge: very clearly the holding pen for animals pre-slaughter. 

We walked home through Garibaldi Piazza in Trastevere, and on the way saw the Mussolini-era hero-tribute, below. 

Finished with a very nice view of the city. 

apertivo!

I was introduced to apertivo by my flatmate last night, which may be my new favorite thing about Rome, although there are only certain neighborhoods that offer it, so you have to be in Trastevere or other select spots to find it. Apertivo is a drink (ordered at the table), with a buffet of italian primi dishes offered buffet-style inside the establishment: 1. order drink (I had aperol with white wine and an orange slice, which is known as spritz in some areas. For those of you who like Campari, which is made from pomegranate, aperol is it's sweet, orange cousin). 2. pick your way through the chatting patrons, wander into the bar and pile your small plate with baby couscous, green salad with big hunks of feta, panzanella, tortilla, bread with olive tapenade and sliced charcuterie. 3. return as many times as you like. Our apertivo cost 5EU last night: quite a bargain. We bought cannoli on the walk home. The cono was a little moister than I like, but the ricotta filling was perfectly accented by liquor-soaked maraschino ciliegia. 


The evening before I also dined in Trastevere, but solo. I found Da Augosto, which came recommended by a co-worker at FAO and was hidden off Piazza Santa Rufina. Small outdoor tables were set closely together with paper coverings, and the menu was handwritten, photocopied and tucked into plastic sleeves. The wine prices were so cheap that I mistakenly ordered a 1/2 liter of wine for myself (thinking it had to be a smaller amount for only 3EU) but was luckily able to talk my sour server into exchanging it for a 1/4 liter. Ordered strataccetti con rucola which I learned was shredded beef cooked in a savory, mildly spicy read sauce served on a bed of arugula. At the end of the evening the proprietor scratched my bill on the paper table covering and I went off in search of gelato. 


There are no pictures from either evening because I hesitate to whip out my camera and photograph my food in highly public places, but this was the view from the bridge on the way to dinner last night: 

before 13:00

Mid-morning breakfast at a cafe in a nearby piazza. Cappuccino e brioche con cioccolato, e los italianos.

Sat on the steps of the Pantheon fountain and studied Italian for a few hours.

Made myself lunch with this morning's market haul. 

Va bene, va bene.

il mercato

First visit to il mercato (campo di fiore) this morning. It's one of many open markets in the city, but one of the more famous. There were about 20 stalls packed with various vegetables, fruits, pastas, nuts and seeds, fish, and a little bit of meat. Around the plaza there are reparto formaggis, butchers, fornos and other specialty shops.  

A fruit vendor: 

sundried tomatoes

pesce!

I came home with fresh arugula, tomatoes, cucumbers, radiccio, tallegio, mozzarella, cacciatore and cherries. The vegetable grower threw in a sprig of basil as well. 

taking the long way home

First day at FAO today. An overview, and an online-security training. I gave myself enough time to walk there, and then ended up with spare time, so I walked around the building a bit. This poster is one of two hanging on the front facade. You can sign the petition here, please. The building is surrounded by a tall fence and looked rather ominous. I spoke to security and had to be escorted into the building and up 6 flights of stairs to the "c" wing. It was a good day; more on FAO later.

My walk home was spectacular. It began with these fine arches
followed by this (I haven't looked up the official name yet), which is on one side of the
colosseum, below.

The ruins go on forever, as do the tourists in all shades and nationalities.
Ended with two nice sets of stairs.

giorno uno

Explored my new neighborhood (just off of Piazza Navona, quite close to Campo di Fiore and just across the river from Travestere). Found my jogging path (and yes, I saw runners on this path so I won't be the freak american jogger).

The picture of the river was taken from this sweet bridge, which connects my side of town to Travestere.

Wandered into Campo di Fiore, where I found this recommended bakery/pizzeria Antico Forno. I ordered pizza margherita, which is the only type of pizza I can order besides bianca (which they clearly didn't have).

The nice lady told me in rapid italian that they didn't have it...and maybe that I was a lousy italian speaker as well (who really knows?) so I got this one instead. Best 2EU I've spent since I arrived.

Rounded out the evening by sampling the stracciatella and guianduia gelato in Piazza Navona.

il arrivo

I'm here, safe and sound. The shuttle bus service tried to take me for a 35EU ride, so instead I asked some nice looking Italian man (in Italian) how to get to the Centro. He responded in Italian and told me to take the Train...so I found the train station connected to the airport. At the ticket line there were some germans who had purchased too many tickets so they sold me one for 5EU. I then had to find the correct train by asking another Italian man who directed me to a different platform. Once off the train, I went up a flight of stairs, then back down, then up again to find the metro. (my bag is too heavy. this may be the first time I've ever over-packed. it's terrible).

I found the correct metro, and took it to the Colloseum stop. When I popped (or rather slugged) out of the underground, the Colloseum was RIGHT there, and so were a huge horde of pink tourists moving in packs. PACKED, literally. I then asked a waitress how to get to Piazza Navarra, and she told me to get on the 87 bus. So I hopped (lugged) onto the 87 bus, and took it to the stop I believed was close to the Piazza. Then I asked a nice storelady for a street, and she responded in rapid Italian, hugged me and sent me on my way. I then bumped along the cobblestone streets for about 25 minutes until I found a doorway that said "Cornell University" on it. Inside were pleasant staff who gave me keys! The whole trip cost me 10EU.