At 18:00 when I finished work it was pouring buckets. I ran into an acquaintance who was standing in a small group watching the rain. I told her I didn't have an umbrella, and she said that was fine because it was time for salsa class anyway. I followed her down the steps to a basement room with a wall-length mirror, where there were about 10 other multinationals assembled. Thursday night is salsa night: a fellow from San Diego and another from Mexico City teach salsa for free at FAO, an hour beginner and then an hour advanced. I stayed for both hours and will be a regular for the rest of my roman holiday.
On the way home I found my way to a small restaurant I read about in the Jewish Ghetto. I was ushered in (alone) by the two grandmothers (wo)manning the door, and seated at a 4-top by myself. I ordered wine. The hostess then came back with two large germans, and sat them at my table. I ordered carciofo alla guiudia (literally jewish artichoke), which is an artichoke that has been deep fried and salted. It tasted like the most delicious crispy vegetable chips I've ever eaten. I also had fettuccini con pesto alle genovese, which was handmade and delicious. The germans were quite pleasant, if not a little loud.
Was the restaurant crowded or were the grandmothers trying to liven the atmosphere by forcing some conversation? Are you sure you didn't order the germans, somehow? Extra large? Did you practice your german?
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